Wave Vortex Parameters as an Indicator of Breaking Intensity
The study of the geometric shape of the plunging wave enclosed vortices as a possible indicator for the breaking intensity of ocean waves has been ongoing for almost 50 years with limited success. This paper investigates the validity of using the vortex ratio and vortex angle as methods of predicting breaking intensity. Previously published works on vortex parameters, based on regular wave flume results or solitary wave theory, present contradictory results and conclusions. Through the first complete analysis of field collected irregular wave breaking vortex parameters it is illustrated that the vortex ratio and vortex angle cannot be accurately predicted using standard breaking wave characteristics and hence are not suggested as a possible indicator for breaking intensity.
[1] Iribarren, C.R. and C. Nogales, Protection des Ports. 17th International Navigation Congress, 1949. 2: p. 31 - 80.
[2] Mead, S.T., Black, K., Predicting the Breaking Intensity of Swfing Waves. Special Issue of the Journal of Coastal Research on Surfing., 2001: p. 103 -130.
[3] Scarfe, B.E., et al., The Science of Surfing Waves and Surfing Breaks - Review. Scripps Institution of Oceanography Technicial Report, 2003: p. 1 - 12.
[4] Smith, E.R. and N.C. Kraus, Laboratory Study of Wave Breaking over Bars and Artificial Reefs. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 1991. 117(4): p. 307 - 325.
[5] Blenkinsopp, C.E. and J.R. Chaplin, The Effect of Relative Crest Submergence on Wave Breaking over Submerged Slopes. Coastal Engineering, 2008. 55: p. 967-974.
[6] Grilli, S.T., I.A. Svendsen, and R. Subramanya, Breaking Criterion and Characteristics for Solitary Waves on Slopes. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 1997. 123(3): p. 102 -112.
[7] Longuet - Higgins, M.S., Parametric Solutions for Breaking Waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 1982. 121: p. 403 - 424.
[8] Miller, R.L., Role of Vortices in Surf Zone Prediction, Sedimentation and Wave Forces. Beach and Nearshore Sedimentation (ed. R.A. Davis & R.L. Ethington), 1957: p. 92 - 114.
[9] New, A.L., A Class of Elliptical Free-Surface Flows. Journal of Fluid
Mechanics, 1983. 130: p. 219 - 239.
[10] Millar, R.L., The Role of Surface Tension in Breaking Waves. Coastal
Engineering, 1972. 13: p. 433 - 449.
[11] Shand, T.D., Bailey, D.G., Shand, R.D., Automated Detection of
Breaking Wave Height Using an Optical Technique. Journal of Coastal
Research, 2012.
[12] Gal, Y., Browne, M., Lane, C., Automatic Estimation of Nearshore
Wave Height from Video Timestacks. 2011 International Conference on
Digital Image Computing, 2011: p. 364 - 369.
[13] Almar, R., Cienfuegos, R., Catalan, P., Michallet, H., Castelle, B.,
Bonneton, P., Marieu, V. , A New Breaking Wave Height Direct
Estimator from Video Imagery. Coastal Engineering, 2012. 61: p. 42-48.
[14] Walker, J.R., Recreational Surf Parameters. LOOK Laboratory TR-30,
University of Hawaii, Department of Ocean Engineering, Honolulu,
Hawaii., 1974.
[15] Fairley, I. and M.A. Davidson, A Two-Dimensional Wave Flume
Investigation into the Effect of Multiple Steps on the Form of Breaking
Waves. Journal of Coastal Research, 2008. 24(1): p. 51 - 58.
[16] Johnson, C.M., The Effect of Artificial Reef Configerations on Wave
Breaking Intensity Relating to Recreational Surfing Conditions. MSc
Thesis, Civil Engineering, University of Stellenbosch, 2009: p. 1 - 137.
[17] de Vries, S., de Schipper, M.A., Hill, D.F., Stive, M.J.F., Remote
Sensing of Surf Zone Waves Using Stereo Imaging. Coastal Engineering,
2010: p. 1 - 12.
[18] Ritchie, A.C., Finlayson, D.P., Logan, J.B. Swath bathymetry surveys of
the Monterey Bay area from Point Año Nuevo to Moss Landing, San
Mateo, Santa Cruz, and Monterey Counties, California. U.S. Geological
Survey 2010; Data Series 514]. Available from:
http://pubs.usgs.gov/ds/514/.
[19] Flick, R.E., Guza, R.T., Inman, D.L., Elevation and Velocity
Measurements of Laboratory Shoaling Waves. Journal of Geophysical
Research, 1981. 86: p. 4149 - 4160.
[20] Le Mehaute, B., Divoky, D., Lin, A., Shallow Water Waves: A
Comparision of Theories and Experiments. Proceedings 11th
Conference of Coastal Engineering, 1968. 1.
[21] Lin, P., Philip, L,. Liu, F., A numerical study of breaking waves in the
surf zone. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 1998. 259(239 - 264).
[22] Couriel, S., P. Horton, and D. Cox, Supplementary 2D Physical
Modelling of Breaking Wave Characteristics. Technicial Report, Water
Research Laboratory, 1998. TR98-14.
[23] CERC-EW, Coastal Engineering Manual. 2008. EM-1110-2-1100.
[24] Goda, Y., Reanalysis of Regular and Random Breaking Wave Statistics.
Coastal Engineering Journal, 2010. 52(1): p. 71 - 106.
[25] Rattanapitikon, W., T. Vivattanasirak, and T. Shibayama, A Proposal of
New Breaker Height Formula. Coastal Engineering Journal, 2003. 45(1):
p. 29 - 48.
[26] Weggel, R., Maximum Breaker Height for Design. Proceedings of the
International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 1972: p. 419 - 432.
[27] Rasband, W.S., ImageJ. 1997 - 2012, U.S. National Institutes of Health:
Bethesda, Maryland, USA.
[28] Dumouchel, W., O'Brien, F., Intergrating a robust option into a multiple
regression computing environment. Institute for Mathematics and Its
Applications, 1991. 36: p. 41.
[29] Blenkinsopp, C.E., The Effect of Micro-Scale Bathymetric Steps on
Wave Breaking and Implications for Artificial Surfing Reef
Construction. Proceedings of the 3rd International Surfing Reef
Symposium, Raglan, New Zealand, 2003: p. 139 - 155.
[30] Vinje, T. and P. Brevig, Numerical Simulation of Breaking Waves Finite
Elements in Water Resources, 1980. 2: p. 196 - 210.
[1] Iribarren, C.R. and C. Nogales, Protection des Ports. 17th International Navigation Congress, 1949. 2: p. 31 - 80.
[2] Mead, S.T., Black, K., Predicting the Breaking Intensity of Swfing Waves. Special Issue of the Journal of Coastal Research on Surfing., 2001: p. 103 -130.
[3] Scarfe, B.E., et al., The Science of Surfing Waves and Surfing Breaks - Review. Scripps Institution of Oceanography Technicial Report, 2003: p. 1 - 12.
[4] Smith, E.R. and N.C. Kraus, Laboratory Study of Wave Breaking over Bars and Artificial Reefs. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 1991. 117(4): p. 307 - 325.
[5] Blenkinsopp, C.E. and J.R. Chaplin, The Effect of Relative Crest Submergence on Wave Breaking over Submerged Slopes. Coastal Engineering, 2008. 55: p. 967-974.
[6] Grilli, S.T., I.A. Svendsen, and R. Subramanya, Breaking Criterion and Characteristics for Solitary Waves on Slopes. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 1997. 123(3): p. 102 -112.
[7] Longuet - Higgins, M.S., Parametric Solutions for Breaking Waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 1982. 121: p. 403 - 424.
[8] Miller, R.L., Role of Vortices in Surf Zone Prediction, Sedimentation and Wave Forces. Beach and Nearshore Sedimentation (ed. R.A. Davis & R.L. Ethington), 1957: p. 92 - 114.
[9] New, A.L., A Class of Elliptical Free-Surface Flows. Journal of Fluid
Mechanics, 1983. 130: p. 219 - 239.
[10] Millar, R.L., The Role of Surface Tension in Breaking Waves. Coastal
Engineering, 1972. 13: p. 433 - 449.
[11] Shand, T.D., Bailey, D.G., Shand, R.D., Automated Detection of
Breaking Wave Height Using an Optical Technique. Journal of Coastal
Research, 2012.
[12] Gal, Y., Browne, M., Lane, C., Automatic Estimation of Nearshore
Wave Height from Video Timestacks. 2011 International Conference on
Digital Image Computing, 2011: p. 364 - 369.
[13] Almar, R., Cienfuegos, R., Catalan, P., Michallet, H., Castelle, B.,
Bonneton, P., Marieu, V. , A New Breaking Wave Height Direct
Estimator from Video Imagery. Coastal Engineering, 2012. 61: p. 42-48.
[14] Walker, J.R., Recreational Surf Parameters. LOOK Laboratory TR-30,
University of Hawaii, Department of Ocean Engineering, Honolulu,
Hawaii., 1974.
[15] Fairley, I. and M.A. Davidson, A Two-Dimensional Wave Flume
Investigation into the Effect of Multiple Steps on the Form of Breaking
Waves. Journal of Coastal Research, 2008. 24(1): p. 51 - 58.
[16] Johnson, C.M., The Effect of Artificial Reef Configerations on Wave
Breaking Intensity Relating to Recreational Surfing Conditions. MSc
Thesis, Civil Engineering, University of Stellenbosch, 2009: p. 1 - 137.
[17] de Vries, S., de Schipper, M.A., Hill, D.F., Stive, M.J.F., Remote
Sensing of Surf Zone Waves Using Stereo Imaging. Coastal Engineering,
2010: p. 1 - 12.
[18] Ritchie, A.C., Finlayson, D.P., Logan, J.B. Swath bathymetry surveys of
the Monterey Bay area from Point Año Nuevo to Moss Landing, San
Mateo, Santa Cruz, and Monterey Counties, California. U.S. Geological
Survey 2010; Data Series 514]. Available from:
http://pubs.usgs.gov/ds/514/.
[19] Flick, R.E., Guza, R.T., Inman, D.L., Elevation and Velocity
Measurements of Laboratory Shoaling Waves. Journal of Geophysical
Research, 1981. 86: p. 4149 - 4160.
[20] Le Mehaute, B., Divoky, D., Lin, A., Shallow Water Waves: A
Comparision of Theories and Experiments. Proceedings 11th
Conference of Coastal Engineering, 1968. 1.
[21] Lin, P., Philip, L,. Liu, F., A numerical study of breaking waves in the
surf zone. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 1998. 259(239 - 264).
[22] Couriel, S., P. Horton, and D. Cox, Supplementary 2D Physical
Modelling of Breaking Wave Characteristics. Technicial Report, Water
Research Laboratory, 1998. TR98-14.
[23] CERC-EW, Coastal Engineering Manual. 2008. EM-1110-2-1100.
[24] Goda, Y., Reanalysis of Regular and Random Breaking Wave Statistics.
Coastal Engineering Journal, 2010. 52(1): p. 71 - 106.
[25] Rattanapitikon, W., T. Vivattanasirak, and T. Shibayama, A Proposal of
New Breaker Height Formula. Coastal Engineering Journal, 2003. 45(1):
p. 29 - 48.
[26] Weggel, R., Maximum Breaker Height for Design. Proceedings of the
International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 1972: p. 419 - 432.
[27] Rasband, W.S., ImageJ. 1997 - 2012, U.S. National Institutes of Health:
Bethesda, Maryland, USA.
[28] Dumouchel, W., O'Brien, F., Intergrating a robust option into a multiple
regression computing environment. Institute for Mathematics and Its
Applications, 1991. 36: p. 41.
[29] Blenkinsopp, C.E., The Effect of Micro-Scale Bathymetric Steps on
Wave Breaking and Implications for Artificial Surfing Reef
Construction. Proceedings of the 3rd International Surfing Reef
Symposium, Raglan, New Zealand, 2003: p. 139 - 155.
[30] Vinje, T. and P. Brevig, Numerical Simulation of Breaking Waves Finite
Elements in Water Resources, 1980. 2: p. 196 - 210.
@article{"International Journal of Engineering, Mathematical and Physical Sciences:56023", author = "B. Robertson and K. Hall", title = "Wave Vortex Parameters as an Indicator of Breaking Intensity", abstract = "The study of the geometric shape of the plunging wave enclosed vortices as a possible indicator for the breaking intensity of ocean waves has been ongoing for almost 50 years with limited success. This paper investigates the validity of using the vortex ratio and vortex angle as methods of predicting breaking intensity. Previously published works on vortex parameters, based on regular wave flume results or solitary wave theory, present contradictory results and conclusions. Through the first complete analysis of field collected irregular wave breaking vortex parameters it is illustrated that the vortex ratio and vortex angle cannot be accurately predicted using standard breaking wave characteristics and hence are not suggested as a possible indicator for breaking intensity.
", keywords = "Breaking Wave Measurement, Wave Vortex Parameters, Analytical Techniques, Ocean Remote Sensing.", volume = "7", number = "1", pages = "62-8", }
