Abstract: Craft and fashion have always been interlinked. The combination of both often gives stunning results. The present study introduces ‘Paper Cutting Craft Techniques’ like the Japanese –Kirigami, Mexican –PapelPicado, German –Scherenschnitte, Polish –Wycinankito in textiles to develop innovative and novel design structures as embellishments and ornamentation. The project studies various ways of using these paper cutting techniques to obtain interesting features and delicate design patterns on fabrics. While paper has its advantages and related uses, it is fragile rigid and thus not appropriate for clothing. Fabric is sturdy, flexible, dimensionally stable and washable. In the present study, the cut out techniques develop creative design motifs and patterns to give an inventive and unique appeal to the fabrics. The beauty and fascination of lace in garments have always given them a nostalgic charm. Laces with their intricate and delicate complexity in combination with other materials add a feminine touch to a garment and give it a romantic, mysterious appeal. Various textured and decorative effects through fabric manipulation are experimented along with the use of paper cutting craft skills as an innovative substitute for developing lace or “Broderie Anglaise” effects on textiles. A number of assorted fabric types with varied textures were selected for the study. Techniques to avoid fraying and unraveling of the design cut fabrics were introduced. Fabrics were further manipulated by use of interesting prints with embossed effects on cut outs. Fabric layering in combination with assorted techniques such as cutting of folded fabric, printing, appliqué, embroidery, crochet, braiding, weaving added a novel exclusivity to the fabrics. The fabrics developed by these innovative methods were then tailored into garments. The study thus tested the feasibility and practicability of using these fabrics by designing a collection of evening wear garments based on the theme ‘Nostalgia’. The prototypes developed were complemented by designing fashion accessories with the crafted fabrics. Prototypes of accessories add interesting features to the study. The adaptation and application of this novel technique of paper cutting craft on textiles can be an innovative start for a new trend in textile and fashion industry. The study anticipates that this technique will open new avenues in the world of fashion to incorporate its use commercially.
Abstract: Despite the wide spread use of synthetic dyes, natural
dyes are still exploited and used to enhance its inherent aesthetic
qualities as a major material for beautification of the body. Centuries
before the discovery of synthetic dyes, natural dyes were the only
source of dye open to mankind. Dyes are extracted from plant -
leaves, roots and barks, insect secretions, and minerals. However,
research findings have made it clear that of all, plants- leaves, roots,
barks or flowers are the most explored and exploited in which henna
(Lawsonia innermis L.) is one of those plants. Experiment has also
shown that henna is used in body painting in conjunction with an
alkaline (Ammonium Sulphate) as a fixing agent. This of course
gives a clue that if colour derived from henna is properly
investigated, it may not only be used for body decoration but
possibly, may have affinity to fiber substrate. This paper investigates
the dyeing potentials – dye ability and fastness qualities of henna dye
extracts on cotton and linen fibers using mordants like ammonium
sulphate and other alkalis (hydrosulphate and caustic soda, potash,
common salt, potassium alum). Hot and cold water and ethanol
solvent were used in the extraction of the dye to investigate the most
effective method, dye ability, and fastness qualities of these extracts
under room temperature. The results of the experiment show that
cotton have a high rate of dye intake than other fiber. On a similar
note, the colours obtained depend most on the solvent used. In
conclusion, hot water extraction appears more effective. While the
colours obtained from ethanol and both cold hot methods of
extraction range from light to dark yellow, light green to army green
and to some extent shades of brown hues.
Abstract: Geopolymer composites reinforced with flax fabrics
and nanoclay are fabricated and studied for physical and mechanical
properties using X-Ray Diffraction (XRD), Fourier Transform
Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), and Scanning Electron Microscope
(SEM). Nanoclay platelets at a weight of 1.0%, 2.0%, and 3.0% were
added to geopolymer pastes. Nanoclay at 2.0 wt.% was found to
improve density and decrease porosity while improving flexural
strength and post-peak toughness. A microstructural analysis
indicated that nanoclay behaves as filler and as an activator
supporting geopolymeric reaction while producing a higher content
geopolymer gel improving the microstructure of binders. The process
enhances adhesion between the geopolymer matrix and flax fibres.
Abstract: Novel wind-lens turbine designs can augment power
output. Vacuum-Assisted Resin Transfer Molding (VARTM) is used
to form large and complex structures from a Carbon Fiber Reinforced
Polymer (CFRP) composite. Typically, wind-lens turbine structures
are fabricated in segments, and then bonded to form the final structure.
This paper introduces five new adhesive joints, divided into two
groups: one is constructed between dry carbon and CFRP fabrics, and
the other is constructed with two dry carbon fibers. All joints and
CFRP fabrics were made in our laboratory using VARTM
manufacturing techniques. Specimens were prepared for tensile testing
to measure joint performance. The results showed that the second
group of joints achieved a higher tensile strength than the first group.
On the other hand, the tensile fracture behavior of the two groups
showed the same pattern of crack originating near the joint ends
followed by crack propagation until fracture.
Abstract: The garment manufacturing industry involves
sequential processes that are subjected to uncontrollable variations.
The industry depends on the skill of labour in handling the varieties
of fabrics and accessories, machines, as well as complicated sewing
operation. Due to these reasons, garment manufacturers have created
systems to monitor and to control the quality of the products on a
regular basis by conducting quality approaches to minimize variation.
With that, the aim of this research has been to ascertain the quality
approaches deployed by Malaysian garment manufacturers in three
key areas - quality systems and tools; quality control and types of
inspection; as well as sampling procedures chosen for garment
inspection. Besides, the focus of this research was to distinguish the
quality approaches adopted by companies that supplied finished
garments to both domestic and international markets. Feedback from
each company representative has been obtained via online survey,
which comprised of five sections and 44 questions on the
organizational profile and the quality approaches employed in the
garment industry. As a result, the response rate was 31%. The results
revealed that almost all companies have established their own
mechanism of process control by conducting a series of quality
inspections for daily production, either it was formally set up or
otherwise. In addition, quality inspection has been the predominant
quality control activity in the garment manufacturing, while the level
of complexity of these activities was substantially dictated by the
customers. Moreover, AQL-based sampling was utilized by
companies dealing with exports, whilst almost all the companies that
only concentrated on the domestic market were comfortable using
their own sampling procedures for garment inspection. Hence, this
research has provided insights into the implementation of a number
of quality approaches that were perceived as important and useful in
the garment manufacturing sector, which is truly labour-intensive.
Abstract: Wicking and evaporation of water in porous knitted fabrics is investigated by combining experimental and analytical approaches: The standard wicking model from Lucas and Washburn is enhanced to account for evaporation and gravity effects. The goal is to model the effect of gravity and evaporation on wicking using simple analytical expressions and investigate the influence of fabrics geometrical parameters, such as porosity and thickness on evaporation impact on maximum reachable height values. The results show that fabric properties have a significant influence on evaporation effect. In this paper, an experimental study of determining water kinetics from different knitted fabrics were gravimetrically investigated permitting the measure of the mass and the height of liquid rising in fabrics in various atmospheric conditions. From these measurements, characteristic pore parameters (capillary radius and permeability) can be determined.
Abstract: The main idea of this work is to investigate the effect
of knitted fabrics characteristics on moisture management properties.
Wetting and transport properties of single jersey, Rib 1&1 and
English Rib fabrics made out of cotton and blended Cotton/Polyester
yarns were studied. The dynamic water sorption of fabrics was
investigated under same isothermal and terrestrial conditions at
20±2°C-65±4% by using the Moisture Management Tester (MMT)
which can be used to quantitatively measure liquid moisture transfer
in one step in a fabric in multidirections: Absorption rate, moisture
absorbing time of the fabric's inner and outer surfaces, one-way
transportation capability, the spreading/drying rate, the speed of
liquid moisture spreading on fabric's inner and outer surfaces are
measured, recorded and discussed. The results show that fabric’s
composition and knit’s structure have a significant influence on those
phenomena.
Abstract: This study was to explore and utilize the fresh rind of
mangosteen Index Colour 5 as an upcoming raw material for the
production of natural dyes. Rind from the fresh mangosteen Index
Colour 5 was utilized to extract the dyes. The established extracts
were experimented on silk fabrics via three types of mordanting and
dyeing procedures; pre-mordanting, simultaneous mordanting and
post-mordanting. As a result, the applications of the freeze-drying
methodology and mechanizable equipment have helped to produce
excellent range of natural colours. Silk fabric treated simultaneously
with mordanting and dyeing with extract dye Index Colour 5
produced a brilliant shade of the red colour and the colour from this
index is also discovered sensitive to light and washing during the
fastness tests. The preliminary evaluation and instrumentation
analysis allowed us to examine whether the application of different
mordanting and dyeing procedures with the same extract samples and
concentrations affected the colours and shades of the fabric samples.
Abstract: Natural dyes are gaining interest due their expected
low risk to human health and to the environment. In this study, the
wash fastness of a natural coloring matter from the liquid waste
produced in the steam treatment of eucalyptus wood in textile fabrics
was investigated. Specifically, eucalyptus wood extract was used to
dye cotton, nylon and wool in an exhaust dyeing process without the
addition of the traditional mordanting agents and then submitted to
wash fastness analysis. The resulting dyed fabrics were evaluated for
color fastness. It was found that wash fastness of dyed fabrics was
very good to cotton and excellent to nylon and wool.
Abstract: Fabric textures are very common in our daily life.
However, the representation of fabric textures has never been explored
from neuroscience view. Theoretical studies suggest that primary
visual cortex (V1) uses a sparse code to efficiently represent natural
images. However, how the simple cells in V1 encode the artificial
textures is still a mystery. So, here we will take fabric texture as
stimulus to study the response of independent component analysis that
is established to model the receptive field of simple cells in V1. We
choose 140 types of fabrics to get the classical fabric textures as
materials. Experiment results indicate that the receptive fields of
simple cells have obvious selectivity in orientation, frequency and
phase when drifting gratings are used to determine their tuning
properties. Additionally, the distribution of optimal orientation and
frequency shows that the patch size selected from each original fabric
image has a significant effect on the frequency selectivity.
Abstract: The structures obtained with the use of sandwich
technologies combine low weight with high energy absorbing
capacity and load carrying capacity. Hence, there is a growing and
markedly interest in the use of sandwiches with aluminum foam core
because of very good properties such as flexural rigidity and energy
absorption capability. In the current investigation, the static threepoint
bending tests were carried out on the sandwiches with
aluminum foam core and glass fiber reinforced polymer (GFRP)
skins at different values of support span distances aiming the analyses
of their flexural performance. The influence of the core thickness and
the GFRP skin type was reported in terms of peak load and energy
absorption capacity. For this purpose, the skins with two different
types of fabrics which have same thickness value and the aluminum
foam core with two different thicknesses were bonded with a
commercial polyurethane based flexible adhesive in order to combine
the composite sandwich panels. The main results of the bending tests
are: force-displacement curves, peak force values, absorbed energy,
collapse mechanisms and the effect of the support span length and
core thickness. The results of the experimental study showed that the
sandwich with the skins made of S-Glass Woven fabrics and with the
thicker foam core presented higher mechanical values such as load
carrying and energy absorption capacities. The increment of the
support span distance generated the decrease of the mechanical
values for each type of panels, as expected, because of the inverse
proportion between the force and span length. The most common
failure types of the sandwiches are debonding of the lower skin and
the core shear. The obtained results have particular importance for
applications that require lightweight structures with a high capacity
of energy dissipation, such as the transport industry (automotive,
aerospace, shipbuilding and marine industry), where the problems of
collision and crash have increased in the last years.
Abstract: The study discussed in this paper was conducted in an
attempt to investigate effects of different drying methods (line dry
and tumble dry) on viscose single jersey fabrics knitted with ring
yarn.
Abstract: By textile science incorporating with electronic
industry, developed textile products start to take part in different
areas such as industry, military, space, medical etc. for health,
protection, defense, communication and automation. Electronic
textiles (e-textiles) are fabrics that contain electronics and
interconnections with them. In this study, two types of base yarns
(cotton and acrylic) and three types of conductive steel yarns with
different linear resistance values (14Ω/m, 30Ω/m, 70Ω/m) were used
to investigate the effect of base yarn type and linear resistance of
conductive yarns on thermal behavior of e-textile structures. Thermal
behavior of samples was examined by thermal camera.
Abstract: The material selection in the design of the sandwich
structures is very crucial aspect because of the positive or negative
influences of the base materials to the mechanical properties of the
entire panel. In the literature, it was presented that the selection of the
skin and core materials plays very important role on the behavior of
the sandwich. Beside this, the use of the correct adhesive can make
the whole structure to show better mechanical results and behavior.
In the present work, the static three-point bending tests were
performed on the sandwiches having an aluminum alloy foam core,
the skins made of three different types of fabrics and two different
commercial adhesives (flexible polyurethane and toughened epoxy
based) at different values of support span distances by aiming the
analyses of their flexural performance in terms of absorbed energy,
peak force values and collapse mechanisms. The main results of the
flexural loading are: force-displacement curves obtained after the
bending tests, peak force and absorbed energy values, collapse
mechanisms and adhesion quality. The experimental results presented
that the sandwiches with epoxy based toughened adhesive and the
skins made of S-Glass Woven fabrics indicated the best adhesion
quality and mechanical properties. The sandwiches with toughened
adhesive exhibited higher peak force and energy absorption values
compared to the sandwiches with flexible adhesive. The use of these
sandwich structures can lead to a weight reduction of the transport
vehicles, providing an adequate structural strength under operating
conditions.
Abstract: In the scope of application of technical textiles, Non-
Crimp Fabrics are increasingly used. In general, NCF exhibit
excellent load bearing properties, but caused by the manufacturing
process, there are some remaining disadvantages which have to be
reduced. Regarding to this, a novel technique of processing NCF was
developed substituting the binding-thread by an adhesive. This stitchfree
method requires new manufacturing concept as well as new basic
methods to prove adhesion of glue at fibres and textiles. To improve
adhesion properties and the wettability of carbon-fibres by the
adhesive, oxy-fluorination was used. The modification of carbonfibres
by oxy-fluorination was investigated via scanning electron
microscope, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and single fibre
tensiometry. Special tensile tests were developed to determine the
maximum force required for detachment.
Abstract: This paper conducts a comparison study using KES-FB and PhabrOmeter to measure 58 selected warp knitted fabric hand properties. Fabric samples were selected and measured by both KES-FB and PhabrOmeter. Results show differences between these two measurement methods. Smoothness and stiffness values obtained by KES-FB were found significant correlated (p value = 0.003 and 0.022) to the PhabrOmeter results while softness values between two measurement methods did not show significant correlation (p value = 0.828). Disagreements among these two measurement methods imply limitations on different mechanism principles when facing warp knitted fabrics. Subjective measurement methods and further studies are suggested in order to ascertain deeper investigation on the mechanisms of fabric hand perceptions.
Abstract: The design of an optimised horizontal axis 5-meter-long wind turbine rotor blade in according with IEC 61400-2 standard is a research and development project in order to fulfil the requirements of high efficiency of torque from wind production and to optimise the structural components to the lightest and strongest way possible. For this purpose, a research study is presented here by focusing on the structural characteristics of a composite wind turbine blade via finite element modelling and analysis tools. In this work, first, the required data regarding the general geometrical parts are gathered. Then, the airfoil geometries are created at various sections along the span of the blade by using CATIA software to obtain the two surfaces, namely; the suction and the pressure side of the blade in which there is a hat shaped fibre reinforced plastic spar beam, so-called chassis starting at 0.5m from the root of the blade and extends up to 4 m and filled with a foam core. The root part connecting the blade to the main rotor differential metallic hub having twelve hollow threaded studs is then modelled. The materials are assigned as two different types of glass fabrics, polymeric foam core material and the steel-balsa wood combination for the root connection parts. The glass fabrics are applied using hand wet lay-up lamination with epoxy resin as METYX L600E10C-0, is the unidirectional continuous fibres and METYX XL800E10F having a tri-axial architecture with fibres in the 0,+45,-45 degree orientations in a ratio of 2:1:1. Divinycell H45 is used as the polymeric foam. The finite element modelling of the blade is performed via MSC PATRAN software with various meshes created on each structural part considering shell type for all surface geometries, and lumped mass were added to simulate extra adhesive locations. For the static analysis, the boundary conditions are assigned as fixed at the root through aforementioned bolts, where for dynamic analysis both fixed-free and free-free boundary conditions are made. By also taking the mesh independency into account, MSC NASTRAN is used as a solver for both analyses. The static analysis aims the tip deflection of the blade under its own weight and the dynamic analysis comprises normal mode dynamic analysis performed in order to obtain the natural frequencies and corresponding mode shapes focusing the first five in and out-of-plane bending and the torsional modes of the blade. The analyses results of this study are then used as a benchmark prior to modal testing, where the experiments over the produced wind turbine rotor blade has approved the analytical calculations.
Abstract: The calcarenites carbonate rocks of the Quaternary ridges, which extend along the northwestern Mediterranean coastal plain of Egypt, represent an excellent model for the transformation of loose sediments to real sedimentary rocks by the different stages of meteoric diagenesis. The depositional and diagenetic fabrics of the rocks, in addition to the strata orientation, highly affect their ultimate compressive strength and other geotechnical properties.
There is a marked increase in the compressive strength (UCS) from the first to the fourth ridge rock samples. The lowest values are related to the loose packing, weakly cemented aragonitic ooid sediments with high porosity, besides the irregularly distributed of cement, which result in decreasing the ability of these rocks to withstand crushing under direct pressure. The high (UCS) values are attributed to the low porosity, the presence of micritic cement, the reduction in grain size and the occurrence of micritization and calcretization processes.
The strata orientation has a notable effect on the measured (UCS). The lowest values have been recorded for the samples cored in the inclined direction; whereas the highest values have been noticed in most samples cored in the vertical and parallel directions to bedding plane. In case of the inclined direction, the bedding planes were oriented close to the plane of maximum shear stress. The lowest and highest anisotropy values have been recorded for the first and the third ridges rock samples, respectively, which may attributed to the relatively homogeneity and well sorted grainstone of the first ridge rock samples, and relatively heterogeneity in grain and pore size distribution and degree of cementation of the third ridge rock samples, besides, the abundance of shell fragments with intraparticle pore spaces, which may produce lines of weakness within the rock.
Abstract: Based on different experiences in the historic centers
of Spain, we propose an global strategy for the regeneration of the
pre-tertiary fabrics and its application to the specific case of San
Mateo neighborhood, in Jerez de la Frontera (Andalusia), through a
diagnosis that focus particularly on the punishments the last-decade
economic situation (building boom and crisis) and shows the tragic
transition from economic center to an imminent disappearance with
an image similar to the ruins of war, due to the loss of their
traditional roles. From it we will learn their historically-tested
mechanisms of environment adaptation, which distill the vernacular
architecture essence and that we will apply to our strategy of action
based on a dotacional-and-free-space rhizome which rediscovers its
hidden character. The architectural fact will be crystallized in one of
the example-pieces proposed: The Artistic Revitalization Center.
Abstract: Circular knitting machine makes the fabric with more than two knitting tools. Variation of yarn tension between different knitting tools causes different loop length of stitches duration knitting process. In this research, a new intelligent method is applied to control loop length of stitches in various tools based on ideal shape of stitches and real angle of stitches direction while different loop length of stitches causes stitches deformation and deviation those of angle. To measure deviation of stitch direction against variation of tensions, image processing technique was applied to pictures of different fabrics with constant front light. After that, the rate of deformation is translated to needed compensation of loop length cam degree to cure stitches deformation. A fuzzy control algorithm was applied to loop length modification in knitting tools. The presented method was experienced for different knitted fabrics of various structures and yarns. The results show that presented method is useable for control of loop length variation between different knitting tools based on stitch deformation for various knitted fabrics with different fabric structures, densities and yarn types.